Above the Clouds

United Airlines archives

The first time the flight attendant’s garb caught my eye was when I had the pleasure of travelling with Singapore Airlines. I had flown on an airplane before and had been taken with how prettily stewardesses are dressed and how well-groomed they are. But what really impressed me was Asian flight attendant uniform, insomuch that I fell prey to the effective marketing ploys of Singapore Airlines and bought its uniform.

That was quite a while ago, but groups of elegant flight attendants waltzing across larger airports with an easy grace never case to amaze me. For me, they epitomise the perfect balance of flawless femininity, flair and elegant appearance.

Credit: Pinterest

A whole range of fashion designers have, throughout the history of the flight attendant, designed cabin crew uniforms, inter alia Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, to mention the most important.

In this article, we’ll take a closer look, in a non-exhaustive manner, at the most influential fashion designers of the past decades and how their design and aesthetic principles were reflected in flight attendant attire.

The first airlines were founded in the late 1920s and early 1930s, and flying used to be an entirely different experience back then. 

Passengers got sick often during a flight, as smoke emitted by the airplane could flow into the cabin, and airplanes that were lighter than modern planes were tossed more violently in turbulence. So it should come as no surprise that first flight attendants were all registered nurses who were able to care for sick and frightened passengers. They also had to be able to undertake rigorous job duties: loading and unloading luggage, and helping fuel the plane.

Stewardesses had been wearing masculine style and tailored suits, made by tailors, male dressmakers, up to the end of the 1930s, and hostesses were dressed in military-style uniforms, particularly in European countries, until the end of the Second World War.

The very first United Airlines stewardess uniform can be seen in the picture below:

The first uniform

Credit: SFO Museum

The masculine tailored suits turned less militaristic, less conservative and more figure flattering in the early 1940s. In addition, seasonal uniforms, i.e. in winter, garb made of heavier weight fabrics, and, in summer, light material and light-coloured outfits were designed. 1939 United Airlines stewardess summer uniform by an in-house designer can be seen in the picture below.

Simplicity, clarity, blue and white elegance

Credit: SFO Museum

“The 1940s: Beginning of the Change”

In the 1940s, when the American film industry flourished due to the emergence of sound films, major airlines commissioned makeup artists from Hollywood to teach flight attendants how to apply their own makeup to look alike film starts. While the Second World War was raging in Europe, life just went on as normal in other parts of the world, and people travelled extensively. Including in the United States, where the year 1944 brought a real breakthrough in the design of stewardess uniform: this was the first time a famous Hollywood costume designer, namely Howard Greer, was commissioned to create new uniforms.

Transcontinental and Western Air (TWA) was the first airline to hire a professional fashion designer. The hostess uniform below was the result of such collaboration with designers. It is to be noted that the triangular jacket flap on the right shoulder could be unbuttoned to cover the TWA lettering, allowing the hostess to go to a restaurant or a bar while off duty without having to change. 

Credit: SFO Museum

“The 1950s: Golden Age of Flying”

In the 1950s, flying was a privilege enjoyed by only the wealthiest and an exclusive experience reserved for the most privileged in society. All passengers were treated to a luxury in-flight experience. Seven-course meals on porcelain plates were provided on certain flights by some airlines.

Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ collection was launched in 1947, which overall showcased clearly articulated feminine silhouettes and glamorous shapes. Both everyday style and flight attendant uniforms were inspired by the major style elements of the New Look, e.g. the use of gloves and corsets, but the House of Dior had not yet designed uniforms.

Oleg Cassini (who, by the way, dressed First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy) designed the following suits for TWA hostesses in 1955: the looks were offered in the airline’s colours of light olive green and medium brown, and the uniforms with slim, figure-flattering fit design emphasized the lady shape and curve.

Credit: SFO Museum

The name of a celebrated fashion designer, Don Loper, also need to be mentioned in connection with ‘50s fashion. The multi-talented designer created a stewardess uniform, a very special one, for the airline Pan Am with cult status in America at the time. The colour of the uniform was coordinated with the official colours of the company, and the suit created a feminine hourglass shape which was further emphasized by the triangular pocket flap.

Credit: SFO Museum

Stay tuned for the next part of this article on the top fashion designers of the 1960s.